Kayaking the Thorofare at Priest Lake, Idaho: A Firsthand Guide to Idaho’s Magical Paddle
Planning on kayaking the Thorofare at Priest Lake, Idaho? This guide explains exactly how to paddle from Priest Lake to Upper Priest Lake, including where to launch, how long it takes, and what to expect along one of the most scenic and beginner-friendly kayak routes in North Idaho.
Kayaking the Thorofare at Priest Lake is one of the most unique paddles in Idaho, yet it remains surprisingly overlooked in favor of the state’s splashier destinations.
And honestly, that’s not entirely surprising. Tucked into the far northern edge of Idaho, getting here takes intention: time on the road, advance planning, kayaks to load, and often camping reservations to secure. It’s easy to see why many travelers choose the simplicity of a weekend in Coeur d’Alene instead.
But this trip had been on my list for years. I’d been waiting for the right moment to take my son on this iconic North Idaho adventure. His age was the biggest variable. Last summer, he was finally a strong enough swimmer and confident enough to kayak on his own, so I decided it was time to make the leap.
This is my firsthand guide to kayaking the Thorofare at Priest Lake, including what to expect and the tips that made our trip smooth, memorable, and well worth the wait.
Quick Navigation
- What Is the Thorofare at Priest Lake?
- Where Is the Thorofare?
- Best Time to Paddle
- My Experience on the Water
- What to Know Before You Go
- FAQs about Kayaking the Thorofare
- Quick Planning Guide
What Is the Thorofare at Priest Lake?
The Thorofare is a narrow, winding channel connecting Lower Priest Lake to Upper Priest Lake in North Idaho’s Selkirk Mountains.
The waterway stretches roughly 2–2.5 miles and is designated a no-wake zone, which makes it ideal for kayaks, canoes, and paddleboards.
The water is shallow and exceptionally clear, often revealing fish moving beneath your kayak as you paddle.
By the time you reach Upper Priest Lake, you’ve entered one of the most remote-feeling landscapes in Idaho, accessible only by trail, boat, or as we chose, kayak.
For a broader look at the area, there are plenty of other things to do in Priest Lake beyond paddling, from scenic drives to quiet beaches and forest hikes.
Where Is the Thorofare?
We accessed the Thorofare from Lionshead Campground in the northern unit of Priest Lake State Park, located in Priest Lake, Idaho. Lionshead provides one of the most straightforward launch points for paddling into the channel and continuing on to Upper Priest Lake.
The Thorofare can also be accessed from Beaver Creek Campground on the western side of Priest Lake. Beaver Creek also has a short walking trail (the portage trail) to reach the Thorofare more directly. Kayaks are heavy, so this option is only practical if you have a kayak cart.
We chose Lionshead since it’s the closest access point and we like Lionshead Campground.
DRIVING DISTANCES:
Coeur d’Alene, ID: 95 miles (approximately 2 hours 15 minutes)
Sandpoint, ID: 74 miles (approximately 1 hour 45 minutes)
Coolin, ID: 23 miles (about 40 minutes)
Newport, WA: 58 miles (approximately 1 hour 20 minutes)
Spokane, WA: 105 miles (approximately 2 hours 30 minutes)
If you’re already exploring this northern stretch of Idaho, the Roosevelt Grove of Ancient Cedars makes a rewarding stop nearby, especially if you appreciate old-growth forests and easy, peaceful trails
Best Time to Kayak the Thorofare at Priest Lake
While the route looks calm on a map, seasonal conditions in North Idaho make a significant difference in how approachable the paddle actually is. Water levels, current, temperature, and submerged debris all change throughout the year, especially during spring runoff.
During snowmelt, water moves faster through the Thorofare, water temperatures remain dangerously cold, and floating logs or submerged obstacles may not be visible from a kayak. Even experienced paddlers should approach early-season conditions cautiously.
The best time to kayak the Thorofare is July and August, and potentially September depending on the year and weather patterns.
Three years before our trip, we had planned to kayak the Thorofare in late June. Before heading out, I called the park to check conditions, and the ranger strongly advised against attempting the paddle, especially with kids, due to high water flow and hazards moving through the channel.
If you’re considering paddling in the shoulder season, I highly recommend calling the park in advance to ask about current conditions.
Planning your trip for mid-summer greatly increases the chances of a calm, enjoyable paddle and allows you to focus on the experience rather than the risks.
If your visit Priest Lake outside of summer, winter activities in Priest Lake offer a completely different way to experience the landscape once snow settles in.
FYI: The number listed for the Lionshead Unit is (208) 443-2326.
My Experience Kayaking the Thorofare
We had every intention of starting early, but camping mornings have their own rhythm. Breakfast took longer than expected, gear needed organizing, and before we knew it, we were pushing off around noon.
If there’s one piece of advice I can give, and one I didn’t actually follow myself, it’s this: start early.
The wind tends to build as the day goes on, and an earlier launch would have meant calmer water for the first stretch of the paddle.
We launched directly from the beach at Lionshead. The water was already choppy, and paddling into the wind immediately turned the first section into a hearty arm workout. It took us about forty minutes to reach the entrance to the Thorofare from the shoreline. Even though it was August, the overcast skies and steady wind made the air feel surprisingly cool, and I quickly wished I had packed a lightweight windbreaker.
As we approached the Thorofare, the scenery began to change. The wide openness of Priest Lake gradually narrowed into a quiet, winding corridor. The wind didn’t disappear entirely, but it softened considerably once we entered the protected channel, replaced by calmer water and a feeling of moving into something more intimate and secluded.
The Thorofare itself stretches roughly 2 to 2.5 miles one way, and it took us about an hour and a half to reach Upper Priest Lake. We paddled into a steady headwind the entire time, so the journey likely would have been faster on a calmer day, especially if we hadn’t stopped so often just to drift and take in the scenery.
Because the Thorofare is a no-wake zone, the experience felt peaceful from the start. We saw only a few boats during our paddle, and every captain respected the slow-speed rules, allowing the channel to remain quiet and comfortable for paddlers.
Once we reached Upper Priest Lake, the wind picked up noticeably. We quickly paddled toward a nearby campground beach to rest our arms and enjoy a relaxed snack.
We had planned to explore more of the upper lake, but the growing chop made it feel like an unnecessary risk. Instead, we stayed at the shoreline, skipped rocks, and let our eight-year-old set the pace for a while.
The return paddle was far easier with the wind at our backs. Amazingly, the sun finally began to break through the clouds. The Thorofare is beautiful even in shade, but when sunlight reaches the water, its clarity is striking. Seeing the channel under changing light gave the entire paddle a different perspective.
Wildlife sightings are common along the Thorofare, where the protected shoreline creates ideal habitat. We spotted ducks and other waterfowl, but paddlers sometimes see moose, bald eagles, osprey, and deer along the banks.
What to Know Before Kayaking the Thorofare (Things I Learned)
1. The Wind Matters More Than Distance
The large expanse of the lake can create a pretty forceful wind, so be sure to head out early in the day for the absolute best conditions. The Thorofare itself is easy paddling — but you also need to account for conditions on Priest Lake and Upper Priest Lake.
2. Pack a Sweater or Windbreaker
I got pretty cold a few times even though it was sunny and in the 60s. Pack a sweater or a windbreaker for cool mornings and windy days.
3. This Is Not a Fast Adventure
Plan to linger. Rushing misses the experience entirely.
4. Bring Water + Snacks
The calm environment makes it easy to forget how long you’ve been paddling. Don’t forget a waste bag to pack out your trash.
5. Pack a Dry Bag
Water inevitably gets into the kayak, so bring a dry bag like this to keep all your important things waterproof. Even calm lakes surprise you occasionally.
6. Wear a Life Vest
While the Thorofare may be shallow and smooth, kayaking on the open waters of Priest Lake and Upper Priest Lake always comes with risk. For me, it’s a no brainer and a coast guard approved life vest should be worn any time you’re on the lake. There are loaners at the campgrounds, but for kids, it’s best to always bring your own youth life vest to ensure the best fit.
FAQs About Kayaking the Thorofare in Priest Lake
We brought our own kayaks but Lionshead Campground does provide kayaks for rent. Hotels in the area provide kayak rentals, but you’ll need to have a way to transport them in or on your car.
Yes, with the right conditions.
The Thorofare itself is generally calm and beginner-friendly thanks to slow-moving water and no-wake regulations. The main challenge is reaching the channel, which requires paddling open water on Priest Lake if you launch from Lionshead or Beaver Creek Campground.
Choose a calm weather day, start early, and beginners with basic paddling experience should find the route manageable.
The Thorofare channel is approximately 2 to 2.5 miles one way, connecting Lower Priest Lake to Upper Priest Lake.
That equals roughly 4 to 5 miles round trip through the channel itself. Expect additional paddling across Priest Lake before reaching the entrance and additional paddling at Upper Priest Lake.
Most paddlers take 45 to 90 minutes one way to paddle through the Thorofare itself, depending on pace, wind conditions, and how often they stop.
In practice, many people take longer. The narrow channel invites drifting, wildlife watching, and frequent pauses simply to take it all in.
It’s also important to factor in the open-water paddle from your launch point on Priest Lake before reaching the Thorofare entrance. Conditions on the main lake can significantly impact your timing, especially if you’re paddling into the wind.
From launching at Lionshead to reaching Upper Priest Lake and returning back to camp, our full adventure lasted about five hours, including rest stops, time on the beach, and a general slower pace with our son.
Many paddlers launch from Lionshead Campground at Priest Lake State Park, which provides direct access to the northern end of Priest Lake and a straightforward route toward the channel.
Another option is to launch from the beach at Beaver Creek Campground, located on the western side of the lake. Beaver Creek also has a short portage trail to reach calmer water more quickly. The trail is only a good idea if you have a kayak cart like this. Walking with heavy kayaks is pretty challenging, especially if you have two kayaks.
It can be a great family paddle during mid-summer when conditions are stable.
However, spring runoff can create faster currents, colder water, and floating debris. Before our trip, a park ranger strongly advised against attempting the paddle in early season conditions with children.
The hardest part is kayaking on the open waters of the lake when the wind can make the lake choppy.
For families, July and August typically offer the safest and most enjoyable experience. Under Idaho law, children under 14 are required to wear a life vest.
Quick Planning Guide: Kayaking the Thorofare
Distance: 2 to 2.5 miles one way through the channel (4 to 5 miles round trip)
Skill Level: Beginner to intermediate, depending on lake conditions
Launch Point: Lionshead Campground (Priest Lake State Park) or Beaver Creek Campground
Best Time to Go: July and August, mornings are calmest
Total Time to Plan For: 4–5 hours including open water paddling and breaks
Destination: Upper Priest Lake
Final Thoughts
Kayaking the Thorofare at Priest Lake isn’t dramatic or extreme.
It’s better than that. It’s accessible wilderness. The rare kind that rewards effort without demanding expertise.
And in North Idaho, where big landscapes often steal attention, this narrow stretch of water may be one of the most memorable experiences you can have.
PIN IT FOR LATER
Thank you so much for sharing your experience and all the good tips! It was super helpful!
Thank you! I’m glad it was helpful to you.